Monday, July 26, 2010

Flanders Brown Ale, July 25 2010

I'm not really into sour beer but this style, BJCP Category 17C. Flanders Brown Ale/Oud Bruin, seems to be a good compromise for this fall's club-only competition.  An Oud Bruin has a sour component but doesn't necessarily overpower the rest of the beer.  Balance between sweet malt and sour is the goal.  Based on readings, brettanomyces and other souring critters take time to sour a beer.  The Flanders that I brewed today is highly likely not going to be ready for the club-only sour competition this fall (I'll submit it anyway) but may have potential during AFC and NHC next year.  Many sours can take a year to develop.  As a first, there's lots to be learned about funky beer.
After harvesting at our hop farm yesterday, we stopped at Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido to pick up some "research" for some upcoming brew sessions.  While there were a number of sours in stock, I couldn't find an exact match for an Oud Bruin or Flanders Brown Ale.  I think I picked up something close however, Ichtegem's Grand Cru, Flemish Red Ale, matured in oak barrels, Oud Bruin gerijpt in eiken vaten, 6.5% ABV.  The BeerAdvocate lists the style of Ichtegem's Grand Cru to be a Flanders Red Ale.  We'll sample this Monday.  Most likely, I'll give it a try and pass the rest over to Kara who loves sours.
Ichtegem's Grand Cru - an Oud Bruin matured in oak
Flanders Brown Ale, July 25 2010
5 Gallons, All Grain, Single Infusion Mash, 90 Minute Boil

9 lbs. German Pilsener
1.5 lbs. Vienna
1.5 lbs. Munich
1 lb. Red Wheat
0.75 lb. Crystal 20
0.5 lb. Caravienne
2 oz. Chocolate
2 oz. Black Roasted Barely

Single Infusion Mash 152°F

1 oz. Tettnanger 60 min.
0.3 oz. Spalt 60 min.
1 Whirlfloc tab 20 min.

White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast (vial to quick starter) Thanks, Kara!
White Labs WLP655 Belgian Sour Mix 1 added to secondary
WLP655 Includes Brettanomyces, Saccharomyces, and the bacterial strains Lactobacillus and Pediococcus.

OG: 1.072 @ 73°F
FG:
ABV:

With a grain bill this size, I thought I'd be nearing capacity.  Looks like room for a couple more L.B.s!
Update 8/6: Racked to secondary, current gravity is 1.0125.  Pitched the vial of WLP655 in the secondary.  I'm worried that WLP001 chewed away much of the sugar, not leaving a whole lot for the Belgian Sour Mix to chew on.
After brewing a barley wine today with 15 lbs. of grain and truly trying to keep the grain bed light and fluffy, it looks like this grain bed at 14.5 lbs. was a bit compressed.  I suppose it really depends on the type of malt and the thickness of the mash to determine how much grain a 5 gallon Rubbermaid Cooler can effectively hold.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Hop Harvest, First Pickings

Me harvesting the Chinook Hops.  This trio of vines always has a high yield with multiple harvests.
At last, fresh homegrown hops are here!  Today we pulled a few weeds, trimmed back rogue hop vines, and harvested our first batch of Chinook and Centennial hops.  I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
Michelle, posing at our hop farm in Escondido, CA.
During the summer, there's typically little to do at the hop farm besides harvesting.  There are 30 mounds yet we had a number of them that didn't do well this year.  This is mainly my fault for not visiting the farm more often early in the season.  This year, I need to tag or map mounds that never climbed or didn't even sprout so that I can give them attention next late winter.
Our bottom row of hops has finally produced.  We planted Centennial (near) and Chinook (far) last year.
Third time's a charm and our added bottom row is finally taking off.  I tried planting Cascade and Tettnanger when we first added this row a few years ago.  They failed maybe due to soil conditions, too dry, or the killer rabbits.  During the second year, we mirrored our successful top row by splitting rhizomes and planting Chinook and Centennial on the bottom row.  That year, mounds were brutally attacked by killer gnawing rabbits and while a handful were able to make the climb, yield was nearly negligible.  This year, we've increased the water flow rate, heavily mulched and fertilized, and ensured to allow plants to grow as full as possible at the base to deter those wascal wabbits from the main vines.
Many of the Chinook cones are papery and light, ready for picking.  Many others will be ready in 2 weeks.
Today was just the first harvest and you can tell when the hop cones are ready to pick.  They get drier or papery and become much lighter in weight.  You may also see some light browning on some cones beginning to develop.  This is when they are ready to pick.  In the early days, we used clippers and cut each one carefully off the vine.  Now, we just pull.  We try to eliminate the stem by pinching at the base.  After picking, my hands are sticky with a yellowish dirt color from all of the lupulin.  The smell, however, is hoptastic!
Chinook hops do very well here, lush full leaves with hop flowers growing at every opportunity.
Healthy, happy, and full, the Chinook trio of vines on our top row never fails to just go crazy!
The Chinook trio is loaded with hops.  Some are ready now yet we'll be be able to pick cones for many weeks.
As you can see from the above picture, the cones are in different stages.  I know the big hop growers choose an optimal timing for their vines and cut them down for a single harvest.  What do they do with underdeveloped hops or ones that have turned all brown.  My guess is that they make pellets!
Big ones!  Most Chinook hops that are ready to pick are fairly large cones.
Cone sizes and shapes vary with variety.  Hopefully, my hand gives you an idea about the size of the chinook hop cones.
Centennial hops at the top of the wire.  A terminating cone at the right.
When hops reach the top of the guide line, they often continue growing horizontally.  When a branch or vine ends, it always terminates with a cone.  When it does this, it will grow no further.  Also, if a climbing vine tip gets cut or damaged, it will no longer continue to grow.
A couple of our Centennial hop mounds don't always grow as thick and lush as the Chinook trio.  
Many hop plants are not successful until the second season.  I think the above vine was a mound that needed to be replanted.  Regardless, some mounds only have one or two vines that climb and yield is fairly low.
These cones are moist and heavy and will likely be ready in 2 weeks.
Time to fire up the dehydrator!  I need to build the box fan dehydrator I've sketched out in my mind a few years back.  If anyone wants to see how I have been dehydrating and storing my homegrown hops, click here for dehydrating hops or storing hops.  Cheers!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Recirculation Immersion Chilller

...and now, for some chilling.  Literally.
I got this idea from Jamil Zainasheff on his website MrMalty.com.  Jamil shows his Whilpool/Immersion Chiller in great detail on his site.  He's also discussed this modification to his homebrewing system on his internet radio show, The Jamil Show.  While many others go to fancy counterflow chillers or plate chillers, there's actually some good benefits to using an immersion chiller (see Jamil's website for a good discussion on the pros and cons).  The biggest downsides, however, is that it takes longer and uses lots more water.  Adding a recirculation element or whirlpool allows the wort to constantly be moving inside the kettle while the chiller is in the process of heat exchanging.  This increases the surface contact of wort to the chiller, effectively improving chilling time and water efficiency.  Adding a recirculation element to an immersion chiller can bank on the benefits while strongly chiseling away the downers.  Today, I improved upon my wort chilling system to increase water efficiency and to decrease the time needed to take wort from 212°F to less than 80°F.

I made a bigger wort chiller about 2 years ago with 50 feet of 3/8" OD copper.  While it looks like a job well done, I've had some minor issues.  First, 50 feet is a long distance and you need to have decent pressure to push water through that much restriction (maybe 50 feet of 1/2" OD would have made this better?).   I've attempted to use a pump to recirculate ice water through the chiller with limited success (works for several minutes at a time but stalls often).  The pump simply experienced too much back pressure.  Second, while I attempted to make good bends in the copper using a spring bender, I ended up making a few kinks which drastically increased restriction on an already overly distant length of 3/8" copper.  Here's a couple of pictures when I had just finished building a larger chiller.  Notice the kinks from too sharp of bends on the upper image.
Immersion Chiller built 2 years ago.
The new chiller keeps hop trub in the center while cooling much of the column of wort.
So the first order of business before adopting Jamil's whirlpool idea is to remove those kinks!  With a pipe cutter, I was able to remove the kinked locations and ended up taking off about 3-4 feet of copper.  Even though only a few feet, every little bit of restriction helps.
Several of my previous bends caused kinks in the copper pipe that limited the flow of water.
After a couple of chops, all kinks were eliminated.
After cutting out the kinks, the next challenge was to carefully bend the pipe to meet the kettle lid's notch without creating too sharp of angles or additional pipe.
Spring pipe benders are really useful for creating the curves on your wort chiller.
I found using a spring pipe bender (available at hardware stores near the copper tubing) useful to avoid making kinks.  You simply need to be patient and have enough pipe for leverage when bending.  Over bend each time and bend back to desired position.  Bends close to one another can be very challenging.  Just know that its tough to make different curves in a close sequence.
Refurbished and kink-free immersion wort chiller.
After trying this out with today's Kölsch, it works so much better.  At the end of chilling, I usually blow out the excess water and it was drastically easier to blow it out this time.  Also, the back-pressure on the tubing usually causes a leak on the IN-tube.  This didn't occur!  I suppose I can try pumping ice water again with my March Pump.

Onward to adding the recirculator/whirlpool:
I took about a foot section of the removed copper pipe and worked some angles so that beer can be pumped from the kettle spigot, through the kettle lid notch, and directed to flow alongside the immersion wort chiller.
This length was cut from my wort chiller and reshaped to direct circulating wort flow.
Using the spring pipe bender makes bending easier on the most part.  At least, it help you avoid kinking.  I would suggest working with pipe sections several inches longer than you anticipate.  Otherwise, its nearly impossible to bend near the end of the pipe.  You can always cut off excess later using a pipe cutter (about $10 at the hardware store).  Also, you should keep some sand paper on hand (220 grit sandpaper and a 400 sanding sponge seemed to do the job well) for sanding down those rough edges after cutting.  Don't forget to wash and rinse well before using! 
Immersion wort chiller with recirculation arm to move hot wort circular around the immersion chiller.
Here's how I do my wort chilling.  At the end of my brewing session, I stir the wort with a large spoon and get the wort moving fairly quickly in a circular fashion.  While stirring, I slowly move the stirrer towards the center of the kettle to create a whirlpool.  After waiting several minutes to allow the whirlpool to come to a halt whilst center settling the hop and trub, I slowly add the clean wort chiller to the center of the pot (most of the hop trub will remain in the center of the chiller's coils).  I allow the chiller to "bake" for several minutes for sanitation purposes.  At the same time, I arrange the pump to draw from the spigot and return to the kettle via the recirculation arm.  You can see this crafty shaped piece in the picture above.  As soon as possible, I begin recirculation prior to chilling to also "bake" the high-temp lines, pump (this pump handles high-temps), and copper pipe.  After sanitation is complete, I turn on the chiller using hose water.  Today, I think I cut my chilling time and water usage in half.  Not bad considering that summer temperatures have increased the temps of tap water and my black hose soaking up the summer heat isn't helping either.
Here, you can see the pump setup.  The bucket collects heated water from the immersion chiller.
During the summer months around here, the process of chilling the wort can take longer than the rest of the year and a better solution is needed.  I bought this pump towards the end of last season so that I can recirculate ice water through my immersion chiller.  It seems that the recirculator arm is more useful.  If I had two pumps, I could do both recirculation of wort and utilizing ice water.
Jamil's setup has two exit points for the wort though I'm not sure its necessary for a 5 gallon setup.  Click Here to see Jamil's Whirlpool/Immersion Chiller for some more info.
Only one potential issue to address.  I did notice that some hop fragments managed to collect at the incoming pump connection.  I have a QD here (quick disconnect) that has a plastic + going through the center of where the wort flows.  This cross hair of plastic picked up some hop matter and likely slowed the flow at some point.  I might need to add a filter element in the kettle or along the line to deal with this.
The pump was very easy to clean.  While the pump was running, I slowly closed the kettle valve and slid off the tubing.  The pump returned the remains to the kettle and then the pump was shut off.  I removed the recirculator arm.  I put the incoming tubing in the water bucket and pumped fresh water through the system.  I took off the QDs and dipped them in water to remove the hop matter that collected.  Last, I put the incoming tubing in a bucket of sanitizer (StarSan) and pumped that through for just a bit.  Finally, I removed the tubing for air drying.  Very minimal effort for a huge increase in chillindamos!

Kölsch, July 23 2010

After feeling the guilt of breaking the Reinheitsgebot last week, I decided to brew a proper Kölsch.

Change in Focus - Follow Those Guidelines!
After a written pep talk by Harold Gulbransen, I've decided to focus on BJCP style guidelines.  My fantastic homebrew club, QUAFF, has started a monthly beer evaluation opportunity.  The goal being to provide ample analysis and feedback to brewers in time to re-brew a better beer for the upcoming competition season.  This is actually a very generous offer since its immediate feedback from experienced beer judges.  Unfortunately, I missed out the opportunity this month since my kegs were licked dry a couple of weeks ago.  Next month, I'm taking advantage of the offer.
Many of us QUAFFers want the club to do very well this coming homebrew competition season especially considering that NHC is in our hometown, San Diego.  Not long ago, QUAFF was the AHA National Champion or Homebrew Club of the Year.  They earned this title 6 years in a row!  I believe this was accomplished by just a few dedicated brewers that consistently submitted numerous outstanding beers.  Since 2006, no one really stepped up to the plate.
I would hear the competition announcements at every club meeting but never really considered entering in any of my homebrews.  Its time to give this competition thing a try.  I know I'll learn lots, maybe get a certificate or two, it can only help my brewing get better, and hopefully, I can help my club.

Kölsch, July 23 2010
BJCP Category 6C. Kölsch
5 Gallons, All Grain, Single Infusion Mash, 90 Minute Boil

9 lbs. German Pilsener
0.75 lb. Vienna
0.25 lb. Red Wheat malt
Single Infusion Mash 148°F

1.25 oz. Hallertauer 60 min.
0.25 oz. Saaz 1 min.
1 Whirlfloc tab 20 min.

White Labs WLP029 German Ale/Kölsch Yeast (racked to yeast bed of Honey Kölsch)
Fermented at 66°F

OG: 1.056 @ 72°F
FG: 1.012 @ 56°F
ABV: 6.1% (temp corrected)

Update 7/29: Racked to secondary, current gravity is 1.0115
Update 8/16: Kegged after 2 weeks of lagering at 45°F.  Has a bit of residual sulfur aroma which is acceptable in the aroma BJCP guidelines.  I went a little far on ABV, style guidelines range from 4.4-5.2%.  

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Seconds, Please Saison July 17 2010

After a successful release of my first Belgian Saison last weekend, I had to have another go.  The recipe formulation is different this time.  I'm out of pilsener malt, added Vienna malt to the grain bill,  added honey to the sugar adjuncts, and finished the hopping schedule with an addition of Saaz.  Ah, Saaz!  The last change will be fermentation temperature.  The previous Saison fermented around 70°F and this one will experience temps around 80°F.  Kara was here to help today :-)  Its always nice to have my apprentice here!
A pour of Saison Dupont (source below)
My experience with drinking Saison is still fairly limited.  I've had Saison Dupont on one occasion and have had a few homebrewed by QUAFFers and other brew buddies.  Probably the most notable of all Saisons in San Diego is Brother Levonian, a Saison brewed in honor of Dave Levonian, a great homebrewer and friend to all in our homebrew club, QUAFF.

Seconds, Please Saison July 17 2010
BJCP Category 16C. Saison
5 Gallons, All Grain, Single Infusion Mash, 75 Minute Boil

8.5 lbs. Domestic 2-Row
1 lb. Red Wheat
1 lb. Vienna
0.5 lb. Munich
Single Infusion Mash 148°F

0.5 lb. Cane Sugar (Trader Joe's Organic)
1/2 Cup of Sage Blossom Honey added at KO

1.5 oz. Hallertauer 60 min.
0.25 oz. Hallertauer 15 min.
0.25 oz. Hallertauer 5 min.
0.25 oz. Saaz 1 min.
1 Whirlfloc tab 20 min.

White Labs WLP566 Belgian Saison II (2 Vials), thanks Kara!
Fermented at 70°F

OG: 1.065 @ 76°F
FG: 1.0045 @ 68°F
ABV: 8.2% (temp corrected)

Image Source: User: Jmcstrav. Saison Dupont. Image. Dupont Brewery. Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia, 1 Oct. 2007. Web. 17 July 2010.

Update 8/6: Racked to secondary, current gravity is 1.006 and its tasting mighty fine!
Update 8/16: Kegged!  Michelle commented that it tastes very Belgian-y.  Excellent!  A week ago, I had Avec les bons Vœux de la brasserie Dupont. Damn it was good!  So much better than their standard Saison Dupont.

Avec les bons Vœux de la brasserie Dupont
Update 8/25: Now on tap!  This is a great beer.  I took this to our club's beer evaluation committee last week headed up by Harold Gulbransen.  While all seemed to feel this beer would do very well (Harold said he could drink this all day), they suggested to dry it up a bit more.  I explained that by measurements of final gravity at 1.0045, its very dry.  There's certainly a perceived sweetness that makes the value of the final gravity hard to believe.  Harold suggested to check my hydrometers for accuracy.
So I tested my hydrometers when I got home.  Turns out I had four hydrometers at home, two triple scales and two Brewer's Edge (one standard, one bottling).  The triple scales both read 1.000 and the Brewer's Edge hydrometers both at 0.999.  They checked out for acceptable accuracy.
Kara decided to take this beer and two others in to White Labs for analysis.  The results: 8.21% with a Specific Gravity 1.00624.  I think that's pretty damn close to my measurements. 
Harold suggested to change out the honey and use sugar such as turbinado to really dry it out.  I'm thinking the honey really left behind the sweetness.  When it comes to using honey, it really doesn't take much to sweeten up a beer.  I think I learned my lesson when it comes to using honey in beer.  From now on, I'll stick with saving the honey for meads.